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Autumn grape planted in spring
In the past, grape cultivation was typically done in spring or autumn, but autumn planting was less common. However, recent scientific studies and practical experiences have shown that planting grapes in autumn offers several advantages over spring planting. This article outlines the benefits of autumn grape planting and provides management tips for better results.
First, the advantages of autumn grape planting:
1. **Earlier Yield**: Grapes planted in autumn do not require seedlings to be grown in spring. They start germinating 20–30 days earlier than those planted in spring. Spring-planted grapes usually don’t bear fruit in the same year, with only a few showing fruit in the second year. Autumn-planted grapes can enter their fruiting period one year earlier.
2. **Higher Survival Rate**: The temperature fluctuations in autumn are smaller compared to spring, and the air and soil humidity is higher, which supports faster wound healing and root development. As a result, the survival rate of autumn-planted grapes is generally over 90%, about 20% higher than that of spring-planted vines.
3. **Longer Planting Window**: Autumn planting can begin as early as mid-September and continue until late October, offering a planting window of 45–50 days—15–20 days longer than the spring planting season.
4. **Better Quality**: Planting in autumn avoids competition with crops like grains, cotton, and oilseeds for water and nutrients. This ensures sufficient resources for grapevines, leading to higher-quality plants.
Second, key management practices:
To maximize the success of autumn grape planting, focus on three main aspects:
1. **Site Selection and Seedling Choice**: Grapes are adaptable to various soils, including sandy, loamy, gravelly, and light saline-alkali soils. Sandy loam is ideal, while sandy soils should be avoided if possible. Choose healthy seedlings with strong root systems, complete buds, no pests or diseases, and no mechanical damage. Select varieties with good cold tolerance for better survival.
2. **Soil Preparation and Planting Technique**: After selecting the site, plow and level the land, then dig planting holes according to the planned spacing. Each hole should be 80 cm at the top and 40 cm at the bottom. Trim the roots and shoots slightly before planting. Add 30–40 kg of organic fertilizer and 0.5 kg of urea to each hole, mix it into the soil, and backfill with 10 cm of soil. Place one seedling in each pit, press the soil down, and water thoroughly. Once the water has been absorbed, cover the hole with soil.
3. **Post-Planting Care**: About seven days after planting, mound the soil around the base of the plant to protect it from cold and improve winter survival. The mound should be about 30 cm thick. When frost begins to appear in the following spring, remove the protective soil gradually and water as needed. Before the buds sprout, cut off 2–3 buds to encourage stronger growth. After the buds emerge, remove excess buds and pinch back the tips. When the main shoot reaches 50 cm, pinch it again and transition to regular field management.