Seedling Cultivation and Management of Red-fructose Fruit Cane

First, the source and characteristics of seedlings. The red-fructose cane has been successfully cultivated at this base after five years of careful breeding. It possesses several notable traits, including stable genetic characteristics, strong resistance to drought, rot, cold, and diseases. The stem diameter can reach 4–5 cm, with an edible height of up to 2 meters. The internode length is as long as 20 cm, and the yield reaches 5,000 kg per 667 square meters. This variety has low fiber content, a crisp texture, and is sweet and juicy, with a sugar content of 16%. Second, seedling treatment. The "red and fragile honey" fruit cane is used as the seedling material. The cane stems are cut into single or double bud sections for nursery use. Initially, they are cut into two buds for propagation, and then further divided into single buds for transplanting. This method is simple, efficient, and ensures rapid germination, uniform growth, and high survival rates. Before planting, the cuttings are soaked in carbendazim or dexamethasone solution diluted 500–800 times for more than 8 hours, then drained and prepared for planting. Third, nursery transplanting technology. The seedbed should be located in loose, well-drained soil, in a sunny and sheltered area close to the transplanting field. The soil should be enriched with compost and animal manure, deeply plowed, and leveled to create beds that are 1–3 meters wide and 10–15 cm high. After disinfection, the sugarcane buds are planted on both sides of the bed, with single buds facing upward, spaced 1.5 cm apart. After planting, a layer of topsoil is covered, followed by a plastic film to maintain moisture and warmth. Fourth, nursery management. During the seedling stage, it's essential to manage water, fertilizer, air circulation, and temperature. The plastic film should remain in place for about 30 days, and during the first 5 days, the internal temperature should be controlled. If the temperature exceeds 40°C, ventilation is necessary. Relative humidity inside the film should be kept around 80% during germination and early seedling growth, while soil moisture should be maintained at 70%. Once the seedlings grow, the temperature should be gradually reduced. A first application of decomposed and diluted manure is recommended, followed by a second application of grafting fertilizer seven days before transplanting. Fifth, introducing seedlings. The temperature should be increased in advance in the planting area. The best time for transplanting is generally between October and mid-March. Sixth, transplanting time and technique. Transplanting should be done when the seedlings have few tillers and no elongated joints. If the temperature is suitable, it can be done earlier. The ideal average daily temperature is around 13°C. The land should be deeply plowed, and good drainage ditches should be dug. Apply sufficient base fertilizer—compound fertilizer at the bottom of the ditch, followed by organic fertilizer. Cover with a thin layer of soil, plant large seedlings shallowly, and ensure proper spacing. It’s best to plant on windless and rain-free days. After planting, cover with diluted manure and apply a plastic film to protect the fertilizer and promote water retention for higher yields. Seventh, field management. Regular checks are needed to fill in gaps, remove weeds, and thin out excess seedlings. From June to August, monitor for pests like yellow peony, two-pointed oyster, bar-headed turtle, and purpura. During the growing season, reapply stem fertilizer, mound soil around the base, perform irrigation, and remove old leaves to ensure healthy development.

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